Porto De Galinhas is a Brazilian beach haven that's often misjudged as just another sun-and-sand stop. But settle in the right neighbourhood and you'll discover its eccentricities—like the beach vendors selling everything from surf lessons to skewered cheese, grilled to perfection on portable barbecues.

## Where to stay

**Muro Alto over Maracaípe.** While Maracaípe is known for its surf waves and youthful vibe, Muro Alto offers a more tranquil experience. Here, the coral reefs form natural swimming pools perfect for floating your worries away. This neighbourhood is home to upscale resorts and pousadas where relaxation is the order of the day.

**Stay central in Vila de Porto.** For an authentic vibe, the central village—Vila de Porto—is your best bet. Streets lined with colourful stores and restaurants beckon you to linger. It’s lively but not overwhelming, letting you dip in and out of crowds. Try Café do Brasil for morning pastries or stroll Rua Esperança for artisanal crafts.

**Cupe Beach for family-friendly retreats.** For those with kids in tow, Cupe Beach is ideal. It's close enough to the action but offers a quieter stretch of sand for safe swimming. The nearby Projetto Hippocampus, a seahorse conservation program, is a delightful educational detour for kids.

## When to go

Visit from September to December. The weather is just right, and the crowds are manageable. January is sweltering and packed with holidaymakers, so unless you're a fan of steamy sands, avoid it.

Porto De Galinhas has a charm that unravels when you know where to look. Ask your concierge for local dining tips, and whether you're headed to Muro Alto or the village centre, embrace every corner.