Arenal isn’t just about the volcano; it’s about finding that nook in the jungle where toucans fly overhead and the hot springs are blissfully tourist-free. The secret? Avoid the narrow tourist trails and opt for local charm. The neighbourhood you choose defines your Arenal experience, and choosing wisely means the difference between mass tourism and true escape.

## Where to stay

**Nuevo Arenal, not La Fortuna.** La Fortuna is the go-to spot, with its proximity to the volcano and endless array of tour operators. But it’s also brimming with day-trippers. Nuevo Arenal, a quaint town about 30 minutes away, offers serene lake views and a genuine local vibe. Stay along the edges for larger properties that offer seclusion, or head into town for old-school sodas and thatched-roof bars.

**Tabacon, for luxury hot springs.** If thermal waters are a must, make the trip to Tabacon, located between Arenal Volcano and Nuevo Arenal. The resort's hot springs offer a more upscale and less crowded experience compared to those in La Fortuna. It's expensive, but you’re paying for peace.

**El Castillo, for wilderness and wildlife.** A little further afield, El Castillo is a hidden gem. Surrounded by dense jungle, it’s perfect for those who want to wake up to the sounds of nature. The nearby Butterfly Conservatory is a treat, and the road into town offers stunning lake vistas that don’t come with a crowd.

## When to go

The sweet spot for visiting Arenal is during the shoulder months of April to June and September to November. It’s the end of the dry season or before the rainy season hits full swing, balancing fewer tourists with lush landscapes.

Wherever you choose to stay, say hello to the locals and ask the concierge for their favorite nearby trails or eateries. They know the spots the guidebooks miss. Arenal is best experienced through a blend of well-planned adventures and spontaneous detours. Enjoy the freedom to roam.