Nice isn't just the Promenade des Anglais and overpriced cafés with lacklustre croissants. The real Nice is found in its neighbourhoods, where locals sip espresso at sunrise and the market stalls outshine touristy shops. Choose your base wisely and you'll see the city beyond its seaside facade.
## Where to stay
**Vieux Nice, not the Promenade.** The Promenade des Anglais might have the views, but Vieux Nice has the soul. Get lost in the maze of narrow streets like Rue Droite, where every corner reveals a new secret: a hidden patisserie, a bustling gelato shop, or a quaint bar with live music. Skip the Promenade’s tourist traps and stay near the Cours Saleya market for the freshest produce and seafood.
**Libération for local flavour.** Want to eat like a Niçois? Head to the Libération district. This is where locals pick up their ingredients at the Gare du Sud market, now a vibrant food hall. It’s less postcard-perfect than Old Town, but if you’re after authenticity, this is it. Stay near Avenue Malausséna for an easy morning market stroll.
**Cimiez for a quieter retreat.** Escape the crowds in the residential area of Cimiez. Known for its grand belle époque architecture and the impressive Musée Matisse, it’s a peaceful alternative to the city centre hustle. Stroll through the gardens of the Monastère de Cimiez or explore the Roman ruins nearby.
**Jean-Médecin for city convenience.** Right in the heart of Nice, Jean-Médecin is the pulse of the city, where shopping, dining, and people-watching come naturally. It's vibrant without being overwhelming, offering access to the tram and a short walk to the beach. Ideal for those who want everything at their doorstep.
## When to go
Late spring to early summer or September. The weather is deliciously warm, and the crowds haven’t yet reached their peak. Avoid August if you can — it’s sweltering and packed.
Whatever your base, take the time to chat with locals at a corner café or linger over a pastis in the afternoon. The concierge at your stay will have their own tips — make sure to ask for recommendations.
