Perched on the cusp of Europe and the Middle East, Cyprus is a land of layered histories and stark contrasts. It's easy to get sidetracked by glossy beach resorts, but the island's true soul is found in its villages and urban quarters. The neighbourhood you choose will define your Cypriot adventure: laid-back coastal promenades, bustling old towns, or serene mountain retreats.

## Where to stay

**Nicosia's Old Town, not Limassol's Marina.** The Old Town of Nicosia, encircled by Venetian walls, reveals Cyprus's complex history. It's a place where mosques and churches stand side-by-side, and where you can wander narrow streets filled with local cafés, like Kafeneio 11, where Cypriots sip strong coffee at all hours. Limassol's Marina, while sleek, feels like a polished international outpost — visit for a day, but base yourself elsewhere.

**Lefkara, not Larnaca's Promenade.** Lefkara is a village of white stone and lace, perched in the Troodos Mountains. Known for its traditional crafts, it's where you’ll find timeworn workshops perfect for authentic souvenirs. Larnaca's promenade, by contrast, is a crowded strip of tourist-focused eateries and bars, better for a brief stroll than a stay.

**Pissouri, not Ayia Napa.** Pissouri offers a slice of laid-back beach life without the neon and thumping bass of Ayia Napa. Stay near the village square for taverna dinners under the stars and an ambience of local life humming gently around you. Ayia Napa has its place — for clubbers and sunburnt partygoers — but Pissouri’s charm is enduring.

**Troodos Villages, not Protaras.** The Troodos Mountains offer a cool respite from coastal heat, with trails to conquer and wineries to visit. Villages like Kakopetria and Platres are pocketed with hiking paths and waterfalls, ideal if you want a scenic retreat. Protaras's beaches are beautiful but packed — perfect for a day trip rather than a base.

## When to go

Visit from April to June or September to October for moderate temperatures and fewer crowds. July and August can be scorching, especially inland.

In Cyprus, the concierge isn't just for show — they’re your guide to this island's hidden layers. Whether you're after a boutique guesthouse in the mountains or a cozy B&B in a quaint village, ask for those local gems. Happy exploring!