Trabzon is a city that's too often boiled down to its postcard-perfect Sumela Monastery and the bustling Hagia Sophia. But the Trabzon experience is richer and more textured when you venture beyond the obvious. Whether you're navigating its labyrinthine streets or sipping tea by the Black Sea, the neighbourhood you choose will shape the Trabzon you encounter.

## Where to stay

**Ortahisar, not Atatürk Alanı.** While Atatürk Alanı is the usual choice for first-timers, Ortahisar offers a more authentic slice of Trabzon life. It's the old heart of the city, where you can lose yourself among narrow alleyways and historic stone houses. The Ortahisar Mosque stands as a central landmark, and the nargile cafés along the main street are perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.

**Boztepe for the views.** If waking up to panoramic vistas of the city and the Black Sea sounds like your kind of morning, then Boztepe is your spot. It's a short drive up from the city centre, where you can enjoy a glass of local Turkish tea at the Boztepe Hill Tea Garden. The sunsets are unbeatable, casting a golden hue over the city and the sea.

**Fatih, not Köşk.** Fatih is a residential area that sings with local life — think bustling markets, such as the Trabzon Bazaar, where you can pick up some local honey or cheese. Skip the tourist-centric Köşk and head here for a slice of real Trabzon living. The streets are lined with shops selling everything from traditional crafts to fresh produce.

**Uzungöl for a nature escape.** While technically a bit of a drive, Uzungöl is for those who want to incorporate some nature into their stay. It's a picturesque mountain village surrounding a serene lake. While it sees its share of tourists, staying here gives you early morning access to hiking trails before the crowds descend.

## When to go

The best time to visit Trabzon is during the shoulder months of May and September. The weather is mild, the skies are clear, and the summer crowds haven't yet arrived or have just left. Winter is wet and cold — best avoided unless you're up for unpredictable weather.

Trabzon is a city that's best appreciated with a bit of insider knowledge. Check with the concierge or explore local forums for hidden gems and eateries off the beaten path. Enjoy the adventure! Never settle for a generic experience — Trabzon rewards the curious.