Nagano's allure is twofold: the thrill of its ski resorts and the serenity of its onsens. Plan it right, and you’ll find yourself carving through fresh powder in the morning and soaking in a hot spring by night. Choose your base wisely, though — proximity to the lifts doesn't always mean the best experience. Skip the crowds and tourist traps for a more genuine slice of Nagano.

## Where to stay

**Yudanaka, not Shiga Kogen.** Shiga Kogen is the skiing behemoth, sprawling with tourists. Instead, Yudanaka offers charm with an authentic twist. Here, the snow monkeys play in the hot springs and diners at Yudanaka Station are your go-to for a cosy meal post-ski. Stay near the Yudanaka Oyu public bath for easy access to both slopes and soaks.

**Matsushiro, not Nagano City Centre.** Downtown Nagano has its conveniences, but it lacks the character of Matsushiro. This historic samurai town gives you a chance to explore ancient residences and samurai spirit — try the Bunbu Military Academy for a slice of Edo-era life. Matsushiro Castle’s grounds are a peaceful escape from the bustle.

**Nozawa Onsen, not Hakuba.** Hakuba is famous, but Nozawa Onsen is quintessentially Japanese. This village is a hot spring haven, with cobblestone streets and ryokans that feel like a step back in time. Stay close to Oyu Onsen and wander the streets after dark when the steam rises and the lanterns glow.

## When to go

Late January to early March is optimal for snow, with powder conditions peaking then. Golden week in late April is crowded and best avoided unless you love queues.

Whether you’re seeking the perfect run or a quiet retreat, ask your concierge about local hidden gems and be sure to sample the nearby izakayas. They might just become the best part of your stay.