Miyagi isn't just Sendai, though that's where the bullet train will drop you. This prefecture, an under-the-radar gem of northeast Japan, has a split personality: there's Sendai's urban hum and Matsushima's serene coastline. Your choice sets the tone — sushi in urban gastropubs or oyster farms by the bay.

## Where to stay

**Sendai's Aoba-dori, not the station area.** Yes, the station buzzes with activity, but Aoba-dori is where you feel Sendai's pulse. Spend your evenings here, among izakayas filled with salarymen unwinding after work. This street's casual eateries are ideal for sampling gyutan, a local delicacy of grilled beef tongue.

**Matsushima Bay, not Shiogama.** Shiogama is the seafood port with sushi joints galore, but it lacks the tranquil beauty of Matsushima. The bay is dotted with pine-clad islets, famously painted by haiku poets. Stay near the bay and visit Zuigan-ji temple — it's peaceful even when the day trippers descend.

**Zao Hot Springs, for the alpine escape.** If you're longing for nature, head to the volcanic slopes of Zao. The hot springs here are a local secret, perfect for a wintertime retreat. Yamagata may claim Zao, but the Miyagi side has the less crowded trails and more intimate ryokans.

## When to go

Spring and autumn are ideal for exploring Miyagi — think cherry blossoms around Sendai Castle in April and fiery foliage on the Zao mountainsides in October. Winter draws ski enthusiasts, but expect crowds on the slopes.

Make your choice, ask the hotel staff for a map or their favorite local spot, and dive into Miyagi's diverse offerings. Each neighbourhood has its own story to tell, if you know where to look. Explore them well.