Fez isn't Casablanca, and thank goodness for that. Here, modernity's not the point. You come for the medieval medina's tangle, not for a sanitized version of Morocco. But where you rest your head in this city determines your experience. Choose wisely, and Fez is yours; choose poorly, and you're just another tourist in a throng.

## Where to stay

**El Bali, but with caution.** El Bali is the heart of the medina, UNESCO-listed and overwhelming. It's where you’ll find the famous leather tanneries and the buzzing souks. Stay in a traditional riad like Riad Laaroussa, but be ready for early morning calls to prayer and navigating alleyways that seem to change overnight.

**El Jdid for a quieter stay.** Just outside El Bali, El Jdid is still close to the action but more breathable. Explore the Jewish Quarter's architecture and the Mellah's unique vibe, without the frenetic pulse of the medina. Check out Café Clock for its camel burger and rooftop views.

**Bou Jeloud for convenience.** Close to both the medina and the Ville Nouvelle, Bou Jeloud is your middle ground. It's a place for street food and local eateries, like Café Thami for a quick tagine. Handy for jumping between the historical and contemporary sides of Fez.

**Ville Nouvelle, not for purists.** Built by the French, it's not the "real" Fez but offers modern comforts and wide boulevards. If your nerves fray easily in the medina's maze, this could be a welcome respite. Stay near Avenue Hassan II for cafes and calmer nights.

## When to go

March to June and September to November — warm days and cool nights make these months ideal. July and August are stiflingly hot; skip unless you love sweating through cultural tours.

Ask locals for their tips, or let your concierge point you to a hidden gem. Fez reveals its layers slowly, and the right base will make all the difference. Trust it over any glossy travel mag's must-see list. Ask about the new riads on Derb Sornas or just wander and find your own corner of this ancient city.