Bucharest is a city of contrasts, where crumbling historical charm meets stark communist architecture. It's not a polished European capital, but that's exactly its appeal. The key to enjoying Bucharest lies in choosing the right neighbourhood, sidestepping the tourist traps, and embracing the city's gritty authenticity.

## Where to stay

**Lipscani isn't the heart.** Once the commercial lifeblood of the city, Lipscani is now mostly a tourist hub. Its narrow cobblestone streets are brimming with bars and souvenir shops, but if you're looking for the real Bucharest vibe, you'll need to venture out. Go for a stroll, but not a stay.

**Piata Romana for the buzz.** This area teems with young energy, thanks to its proximity to the University of Bucharest. Dotted with cafes like Origo on Strada Lipscani, and indie stores, it's perfect for a day spent exploring on foot. Rooms here put you at the heart of Bucharest's creative pulse.

**Cotroceni over Old Town.** While the Old Town draws the first-timers, Cotroceni offers leafy streets, beautiful villas, and a slower pace. It's where locals live, and the gardens of Cotroceni Palace make for an ideal afternoon. Plus, you're a stone's throw from the excellent National Museum Cotroceni.

**Herastrau for leisure.** North of the city, Herastrau offers a green escape with its sprawling park. It's more upscale, with elegant apartment rentals and trendy spots like Biutiful by the Lake. Ideal if your visit coincides with the outdoor movie nights or you need a breather from urban intensity.

## When to go

April to June and September to October are your best bets. The weather is mild, and the city isn’t overrun. July and August can be stiflingly hot and humid, making it less pleasant to wander.

Bucharest is a city that rewards the curious traveler. Once you've chosen your base, let the concierge guide you to the hidden teahouses or late-night vinyl bars only the locals know. Happy exploring!