Benidorm is a tale of two cities. On the face of it, it's a shrine to sun-worshipping northern Europeans, all high-rises and beachfront promenades. But look a little closer — or rather, a little further afield — and there's a side of Benidorm that the package tourists rarely see.

## Where to stay

**Old Town, not Levante Beach.** Levante is the sort of place where you can hear English at every turn and find an all-day breakfast on every corner, but the Old Town is where Benidorm's heart beats. Wander the labyrinthine streets around the iconic blue-domed Church of San Jaime, and lose yourself in tapas bars like La Cava Aragonesa.

**Poniente for a quieter beach vibe.** While Levante has all the chaos, Poniente Beach is its more relaxed sibling. Here, the sand stretches on without as much interruption from the high-rise shadows, and you can actually hear the waves at Cala del Mal Pas — a small, often overlooked cove. The vibe is more family-oriented and Spanish.

**La Cala for a local's escape.** A bit further west, La Cala is where you encounter the Benidorm of yore. It's residential and peaceful, with local cafes like Heladeria Artesanal, where you might have to order your coffee in Spanish. The beach here is small but charming, and the views of the Sierra Helada are unbeatable.

## When to go

Avoid July and August if you can — too hot, too crowded, and too everything. September and October are bliss, with warm waters and a slower pace.

Whether it's sunning on Poniente or exploring the Old Town, picking the right neighbourhood can make your Benidorm stay more than just the expected. Don't hesitate to chat with your concierge for the latest tips and hidden spots. Benidorm might just surprise you yet.