Rotorua isn't shy about its geothermal charms. The scent of sulphur hits you before you even leave the airport, and the steam vents sprouting from every other backyard are unapologetically surreal. But while the hot springs pull you in, where you choose to stay will decide whether your Rotorua story is mostly geysers and glow worms, or if it taps deeper into Maori culture or lakeside hikes.

## Where to stay

**Fenton Street, if you want convenience.** This main drag is packed with motels, hotels, and the odd backpackers, all just a stone's throw from Te Puia's bubbling mud pools and Pohutu Geyser. It's central, sure, but don't expect charm or peace. The convenience is great for a quick overnight, but you might feel like you've missed the heart of the place.

**Ohinemutu, for Maori culture.** A few blocks from downtown, this historic Maori village on the shores of Lake Rotorua offers a glimpse into the local way of life. Stroll down to St. Faith’s Anglican Church where the window etchings of Maori motifs blend old worlds with new. It's quieter here, with the odd waft of hangi cooking. Just respect the privacy as it’s a living village.

**Ngongotaha, to escape the crowds.** Head north along the lakeshore for a slice of local life. This suburb is more residential, with its own little charm. Check out the Agrodome for a farm show or zipline nearby at Skyline Rotorua. Staying here means you’ll be rubbing shoulders with more locals than tourists, and the lakeside views are your bonus.

**Kuirau Park, for a budget stay.** Right in town but away from the touristy vibe, budget stays here give you easy access to Kuirau Park’s free geothermal spots. Pop by the Saturday morning market for local crafts and kai (food). It's less polished than Fenton Street, but that's the point — it's Rotorua without the frills.

## When to go

Rotorua is at its best from March to May and September to November when the weather is mild and the crowds are thinner. Summer can be a tourist crunch, while winter is great if you love a hot soak in chilly air.

Ask the concierge to point out their favourite local spots, or take a detour through the side streets to find a café with a view of Lake Rotorua. The choice of neighbourhood will line up your Rotorua experience before you even open the guidebook. Explore what's beyond the hot springs, and see what makes this place hum.